AHA vs BHA
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AHAs (glycolic, lactic) are water-soluble and work on the skin's surface, so they're best for dullness, rough texture and dry skin. BHA (salicylic acid) is oil-soluble and gets into pores, so it's best for blackheads, oily skin and breakouts. Oily skin usually wants BHA; dry or dull skin usually wants AHA. Start either one two or three times a week, and wear SPF.
AHA (glycolic/lactic) vs BHA (salicylic) at a glance
| AHA (glycolic/lactic) | BHA (salicylic) | |
|---|---|---|
| Works | On the surface | Inside pores (oil-soluble) |
| Best for | Dullness, rough texture, dry skin | Blackheads, oily skin, breakouts |
| Common strengths | 5-10% glycolic in toners | 0.5-2% salicylic |
| Sun sensitivity | Increases; SPF essential | Less than AHA, but still wear SPF |
| Sensitive skin | Lactic acid is the gentler AHA | Often well tolerated; anti-inflammatory |
| How often | 2-3 times a week to start | 2-3 times a week, up to daily |
Choose AHA (glycolic/lactic) if…
- Your skin looks dull or feels rough
- Your skin is dry, not oily
- You want a brighter, smoother finish
Choose BHA (salicylic) if…
- You get blackheads or clogged pores
- Your skin is oily or breakout-prone
- You want to tackle the look of pores
Can you use both?
Yes, but not on the same night to begin with. Alternate them, or use a combined product once your skin is used to acids. The Ordinary's AHA 30% + BHA 2% peel is a ten-minute wash-off treatment for experienced users only, once a week at most. Never layer acids with retinol on the same night.
Products to consider: AHA (glycolic/lactic)
Products to consider: BHA (salicylic)
Frequently asked questions
Is BHA or AHA better for acne?
BHA (salicylic acid), because it's oil-soluble and works inside the pore. AHAs help with the marks that breakouts leave behind.
Can I use AHA and BHA together?
Yes, on alternate nights or in a combined product once your skin tolerates acids. Don't combine them with retinol on the same night.
Do I need SPF with AHAs?
Yes. AHAs increase sun sensitivity, so use SPF 30 or higher every morning while you're using them, and for a week after you stop.
Which acid is best for sensitive skin?
Lactic acid (a gentler AHA) or a low-strength BHA. Patch test first, and start once or twice a week.
Related
Cosmetic products only; nothing here treats a skin condition. See a GP or pharmacist for acne, eczema or rosacea.